Going Gammon* in Oxford
- Ricster
- Aug 9, 2019
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 28, 2020
It's quite possible to go downmarket in Oxford and so for a refreshing alternative I walked over to Cowley. Up the hill and left to Temple Cowley where the Knights Templars had a big presence from 1139 – 1240. The Romans also settled in Cowley The line of a road runs north-south along the eastern edge of Cowley. It linked a Roman town at Dorchester-on-Thames with a Roman military camp at Alchester near Bicester. Being very practical people they didn't bother with Oxford -far too muddy. It was the later Saxons that used the gravely river ford at Folly Bridge and settled here properly. Hence they called it Oxnaforda.

But I digress. Hungry and needing a calorie fix I went straight to Cagneys Cafe at the Templars Square. One of the few old style British Cafes in Oxford. There is also Browns of course in the market run I think by Portuguese and the Tick tock Cafe where some olives strangely found there way onto a fry up I had there once.
You must know the type of cafe I mean. Combinations of all day breakfasts, mugs of tea, daily lunch specials like faggots, mash and gravy. Plus the puddings such as apple crumble and custard and spotted dick – one I always avoid due to some distant primary school experience. Cagneys breakfast also include the “Bubble & Squeak” option; which is a real badge of authenticity in my reckoning.

So I sat in my snug and ate this meal in the cosy interior pictured. I felt a bit guilty about the gammon since since it was probably not free range and I know that pigs are very intelligent and sensitive creatures. And the “fact of the matter is” or “the reality is” which are very popular political pundit expressions that often come with a waging finger! (Alastair Campbell anybody?) I am literally eating Gammon. The Ricster is also something of a Brexiteer; that and the gammon doesn't fit me into the Oxford herd but maybe more so in the wilds of Cowley.
I have in fact been eating little meat recently – and have increased my roughage – having either porridge or muesli for breakfast and eating wholemeal & lots of salads. Which I must say feels very good on the system. I have always noticed however that people who work in heath food shops often look rather pale and unsubstantial. I'm sure they could do with a fry up now and again. I do respect Vegans if the're not too radicalised – at least they practice what they preach and put there money where their mouth is!
I have no need of Pound Land or Savers so I cross over to the. Templars Shopping Park which is what it says on the tin – a car park surround by shops. -The name reminded me of “King Arthur's Filling Station” near Tintagel in Cornwall – which was amusingly pushing the heritage stuff a bit far.
I have had more success here than I have in the new Westgate mall in Oxford – though it is one of the better ones, being open to the air in places. it still feels sort of outside, so to speak, Not completely sealed in as at Westfield in Shepherds Bush which was like a strange Zombie experience and I bought nothing. It felt like half my brain had shut down actually.
I pop into TK Max which is like an upmarket jumble sale really. I've been looking for a light jacket for ages and I find one and buy it! 40 squids, the colour is “Heather Grey” It has the name in bold letters down one arm – I don't usually like wearing logos but this looks quite cool. It says “Michael Kors” I check this out later and find it's a designer label and would be in the £100s – if it was a new arrival in Bicester village. I also look in Matalans – also good for bargain clothes. I walk home feeling grateful.
It was all a nice quiet change from the massive crowds of Oxford centre– this summer they are extraordinary great phalanxes of foreign students – sometimes following their leader who is carrying a flag or something; sometimes a union jack - which is nice. If your not in the mood then Oxford can be challenging especially on Saturdays. The tourists are meandering, suddenly stopping stock still, blocking the pavements and then going off in random directions. The locals are going with purposeful intent from A to B; or trying to anyway. The homeless sit in the middle of all this . If you see a skinny, shabby person travelling with great determination and at great speed then it's probably someone heading off to score drugs. It all seems to work quite well considering.
By the way I'm sure your dying to see a picture of the jacket I bought- or maybe not - but here it is anyway.

( *Gammon meaning: “angry, middle-aged, white Brexiteer – presumably made red in the face by all their fury, bigotry and nationalism” )
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